PLACES OF INTEREST AROUND INS SHIVAJI

TUNGARLI LAKE: Is the lake that supplies water to Lonavla town. It is approximately 03 Kms from Lonavla Station.

VALVAN DAM: With a beautiful garden at its foot, is a popular evening spot. This lakes supplies water to Khopoli Power House.

LONAVLA LAKE: Is also a picturesque spot surrounded by natural scenery.

TIGER'S LEAP: It is the captivating name given to the tip of a cliff from where there is a sheer drop of more than 650 feet.

YOGA INSTITUTE: The famous Kaivalyadhama Yoga Institute located at Lonavla imparts training in Yoga and carries out research in various aspects of Yoga.

RAJMACHI POINT: It commands a magnificent view of Shivaji's famous fort `Rajmachi' (Royal terrace) and the surrounding valley. Regular ST Buses ply between Rajmachi point and Lonavla from ST Stand. The famous Vaghjaidhari is also located there.

DUKE'S NOSE: It is the finest landmark next to INS Shivaji and is popular with hikers. It is the summit of a hill, so named owing to its resemblance in shape with the nose of the `Iron Duke', the Duke of Wellington.

SUNSET POINT: Located next to the rifle range in INS Shivaji, it is a plateau from where one could get a panoramic view of the Sun setting against a beautiful back drop.

KHANDALA: Khandala neighbors Lonavla. Deep valleys on one side and high hills on the other side divide Khandala and Lonavla. While traveling on Mumbai-Bangalore National Highway, one has to cross the arduous Khopoli - Khandala Ghat. This is the famous Borghat. In a short distance of 8 Kms one has to climb a height of 370 meters. This is a difficult ghat to climb.

KARLA CAVES: It's a steep 20-minute climb from the car park to the Karla Cave , the largest Hinayana Buddhist Chaitya in India . Completed in 80 BC, the chaitya is around 40m long and 15m high, carved by monks and artisans from the living rock in imitation of more familiar wooden architecture. A semi-circular `sun window' filters light in towards the cave's representation of Buddha a dagoba, protected by a carved wooden umbrella. The 37 pillars, which form the circumambulatory aisles, are each topped with teak beams said to be original. On the sides of the vestibule are carved elephant heads which once had ivory tusks. A stambha (pillar) topped by four back-to-back lions, an image usually associated with Ashoka, stands outside the cave and may be older than the cave itself. The Buddha images near the entrance were added during the later Mahayana Buddhist period.

BHAJA CAVES & FORTS: It's rough 3km ride from the main road to the Bhaja Caves, but well worth the effort as the setting is lasher, greener, and more peaceful than nearby Karla. Thought to date from around 200BC, ten of the 18 caves here are ‘Viharas', while cave 12 is an open ‘Chaitya', earlier than Karla, containing a simple dagoba but no sculpture. Beyond this is a strange huddle of 14 stupas, five inside and nine outside a cave, The last cave on the south side has some fine sculptures; the caretaker will show you inside for a small `donation'.

BEDSA CAVES: About six kms southeast of Kamshet station, are the Bedsa Caves . These caves see very few visitors, partly because of the 3km walk from Bedsa village to reach them and partly because the main cave - a chaitya thought to be later than Karla- is much poorer in design and execution. Still, it's worth a visit if you have an interest in early Buddhist architecture.

SHRIVARDHAN: The fort east of Rajmachi is known as Shrivardhan fort. Between Shrivardhan and Manoranjan, there is an old temple of Shri Bhairavnath . There are watchmen posts at the entrance of the Shrivardhan fort. The entrance is semicircular in shape so that it is not easy to locate. A little further there is cave belonging to Buddha period. Remaining part of construction is however in Maratha style. This can be made out from Ganesha on the door. There are two huge water tanks on this fort. Both have water throughout year. One of them is near the caves and the other one near the fort. At one end there are residences of the people staying on the fort and on the other end for the guards. Forts like Lohagad, Visapur, Tungi, Korigad, Nagfani etc. can be seen from here.

LOHAGAD FORT: This fort belongs to Shivaji's period and is 10 kms from Lonavala. It was used for keeping prisoners in the year 1564. Shivaji Maharaj won this fort in 1670 in the year 1751, Gaikwad and Dabhade family were incarcerated in this fort. First Delhi gate - the entrance of the Lohagad fort is a spectacular sight. There are three gates one after the other. The third gate especially is very exquisite. On entering this third gate one reaches the guard's post. There is provision to position guns here. This gate is constructed in such a way that the gunfire from gates above would reach the enemy at the first gate. There is a huge cave outside the fort. This cave would be used for storing grains during the rainy season. There is a tomb here as well as a Shiva linga. Next to that there is a tank of water with sweet taste. On the fort there is one more place where water would be stored for use. This is supposed to have been built Nanasaheb Phadnis. There is a plaque but the writing cannot be read any more. The peculiar design on the walls of the fort is known as Vindhukata (fangs of a scorpion). It is said that Shivaji Maharaj had kept the treasures he looted from Surat in this fort for some period of time.

Tiger's Leap

Visapur Fort

Raigad Fort

Torna Fort

VISAPUR FORT: This fort is located to the east of Lohagad fort and it has a huge plateau surrounding it. The fort is famous for its protective walls with intricate designs. These walls and designs have remained in good shapes even after facing centuries of torrential rains. The fort guard's residence in the forest at the center is in ruins. On the right hand side one can still see the gun turret. This turret is made of copper. Unfortunately, it is missing today. There is a pass of 1 - 15 furlongs between Visapur and Lohagad forts. This semicircular pass can be seen from the railway bridge at Lonavla Station. According to a legend, a brave woman is supposed to have crossed this valley on a rope.

TUNGA FORT: A rock piercing the horizon can be seen to the south of Lohagad, this is Tunga Fort. Pavana Dam surrounds it. This fort can be approach by the motor boat for Pavana Dam. It is a steep fort to climb. It is a narrow fort with slippery roads for climbing. There is a temple of Mahadeo on the fort. During Shivaji's period, this fort was used for keeping a watch on the other forts.

RAJGAD FORT: Rajgad is situated at 18 0 15' north, latitude and 73 0 41' east, longitude about 30 kilometers south of Pune. The hill on which it stands is 1317 meters above sea level. There were some small fortifications on the hill but the great fort took its shape entirely under Shivaji's direction. Towards the north is the Padmavati machi , in the south, the Sanjivani and toward the east Suvela machi . All are fortified. Padmavati was the main area where the troop's quarters and administrative offices were located. The padmavati temple and ruins of many other structures can be seen. Sanjivani is terraced and has three levels. It has double row of walls. There are not many ruins here. Suvela mach i has many ruins, amongst them the residences of silimakar, the havildar of the fort and of the brave Tanaji Malsure. A little beyond is a mighty bastion. It is called Nedhe and is a large hole in the rock face open on both sides. The citadel also holds many ruins about 50 in number. The main residence of the king was inside this citadel. Rajgad was known as Murumbdev in ancient times. The fort was built entirely by Shivaji and was his capital for nearly 25 years before it was shifted to Raigad. The fort can be approached from Pune by road. Short of the village of Velhe , the base village for the Torna fort, there are three location from which the fort can be climbed.

RAIGAD FORT: In 1656, Shivaji defeated Chandarrao Moore in a fierce battle. Four years later, in the summer of 1670, Shivaji moved his capital to Raigad. It can be only approached from Pachad, a sleepy village that lies near the base of the mountain. Raigad got its name from the mountain Rairi and it was so inaccessible, the Europeans called it the Gibraltor of the East. Shivaji was coroneted here on 6th June, 1674 . He also breathed his last here on 3rd April 1680 . The natural defences of the fort, in the shape of high and steep scarps, were further augmented by ramparts and bastions. The approach is from a spot where once stood the Chittardawaza. The ascent is not very difficult and towards the end there are some 80 wide steps. A ropeway has been recently installed between the top of the fort and the base village or peth. This will, of course, enable many people to see the fort. The main gate Mahadwar – is an imposing structure. There are innumerable interesting site to see. The place where Shivaji throne was set up, the five storied towers, now party broken, the remain of the king's and the queen's places, and the most famous of all- Shivaji Samadhi or the place where his body was cremated. It is one of the few forts where living accommodation is available on top. A road from Mahad takes one close to the former site of the lower gate. Buses from Mumbai and pune ply regularly up to Mahad and some up to Raigad.

TORNA FORT: 20 miles South-West of Pune, Toma or Prachangad was Shivaji's first major conquest. During the monsoon of 1646, a 16 year old Shivaji captured Toma. He had observed that the hill-top Toma fortress was left uninhabitated during the monsoons, when the army moved into the plains. Shivaji and his band moved into the fortress and claimed it without bloodshed. He repaired it and launched what would be a long battle for freedom from the Mughals, Siddhis, British.

RAJMACHI FORT: The name Rajmachi is applied to the twin fort of Shreevardhan and Manoranjan, situated at 18 0 50' north, latitude and 73 0 24' east longitude. The former, at 826 meters, is a little higher then the latter which is 816 meters above sea level. The forts are about 8.5 kilometers from Lonavla. The first line of fortifications is about a kilometer from the top and consists of high strong wall. The flat land enclosed by this wall was used for troops quarters and granaries. On the east there is a sheer scarp and no fortifications are required. On the west, however, there are ramparts and bastions. The small space between the two hills holding the two forts has an ancient temple of Bhairoba and three very interesting deepmala or stone pillars, conical in shape, and provided with niches or brackets to hold lamps. It is said that the idols installed inside were gifted by Shivaji, Shahu and peshwa Bajirao. Further on, in the east there are further fortifications guarding the shreevardhan hill. The main gate is in total ruins. Immediately inside is a large water tank and a store room hewn out of rock. There are a number of other ruins on the two forts; the stables, the residence of the fort commander, granaries and powder magazines. A rough road to Rajmachi starts from Lonavla, a little distance away from the present bus stand. It is not a difficult trek and the steeper portions near the fort are not very long.

SINHAGAD FORT: 25 km from Pune in the South West direction lies the intimidating Bhuleshwar range. And, straddling the range, atop a steep precipice lies the majestic fort of 'Sinhagad', literally meaning 'the fort of the lion'. An important fort, it has an history that echoes with the bravery of Shivaji's able general, Tanaji Malusure. Legend has it in the dead of the night Tanaji with a band of hardy Mavalas scaled the 3000 ft high sheer precipice using ropes and more unusually trained giant lizards (Ghorpad). These giant lizards had ropes tied to their bodies which trailed down for the warriors to climb up. The Mughals were caught completely unaware by the attack on the Western front and were vanquished. Unfortunately, Tanaji lost his life in the ensuing battle. It was from this place that Shivaji made his celebrated attack on Shaistekan in Pune.

SHIVNERI FORT: Situated very close to the town of Junnar in Pune district, this was one of the most difficult forts of Shivaji. Also famous, as Shivaji was born here. Few other prominent forts are remembered on various accounts. Purandar, one of the strongest hill forts. Pratapgad, an authentic Maratha fort, practically untouched by other hands. Sajjangad is remembered for Ramdas Swami, the spiritual guru of Shivaji. Vishalgad, 112 kms from Kolhapur , considered as the grandest and the most coveted of the hill forts. There are many sea forts in Maharashtra 's Konkan region as well. They were built by the the Bijapur kings, but were later captured by Shivaji.

Rajmachi Fort

Sinhagad Fort

Purandar Fort

Vasai Fort

PURANDAR FORT: Purandar is located on a hill 1374 meters high at 18 0 16' north, latitude and 74 0 02' east longitude. It lies 31 kilometers south of pune. Purandar was an exceedingly strong fort. It had two levels. Half way up the hill there is a relatively flat ground or m ach i. The northern end of this part was defended by a rampart studded with numerous bastion. From here a steep ascent took one to the lower level of the fort through the Dilli Darwaza. From here a narrow path, flanked by looped walls, led to the kand kada a huge bastion on the eastern most side of purandar. One can get a very good view of the satellite fort of Vajragad and the Bhima valley below. Steps, flanked by walls finally takes one to the upper level through the Ganesh Darwaza . On the highest part of the fort stands the ancient Mahadev temple, known now as the kedareshwar temple. Today a metal road leads from Saswad town, the base of the hill and then upwards to the lower level of the fort. There are no facilities at Purandar for an overnight stay, but hotels at Saved, just 10 kilometers away provide fairly good accommodation and visiting purandar does not take more than a day.

VASAI FORT (Bassein): Once it was surrounded by the sea and, thus, it was often referred to as the island of Vasai . Today the sea is only on its northern and western flanks. The fort is very large. The main gate leads to a small courtyard and then through another gate. There are steps at the side which taken one to the ramparts. A walk along the ramparts reveals the numerous old structure of the fort. An inner fortification enclosed the Governor's place, a church and water tanks. Two more churches are located within the fort, one of them still in use. There are remains of many other structures within the fort. It was, once, the northern capital of the Portuguese and was very strongly fortified. The various bastions carry names of Portuguese saints. Much of the historical ambience of the fort has been ruined by the constructions of modern flats housing the personnel of the customs department. There are also two temple's that of Vajreshwari, was built by Chimaji Appa after he captured Vasai. The saint sebastion bastion which was blown up by the Maratha and through which they entered the fort is often missed by the casual observer. A modern equestrian statue of Chimaji stands close by. Vasai is well connected with Mumbai by road and rail. The rail head is Vasai Road railway station on the Western Railway. The township of Vasai is close to the station and three kilometers further is the fort.

ARNALA FORT: As the crow flies, Arnala is not very far from Vasai, but there is no direct link along the coast and hence one has first to travel east from Vasai, get on the Mumbai – Ahmedabad highway and then west again to reach Arnala. The fort is more long then broad and is on the northern end of the island of Arnala . Built by the Sultans of Gujarat around, 1530, it was a very strong fort with a high wall, ramparts at places, and three gates, the main being in the north. The Portuguese took possession of the fort after their treaty with Bahadur Shah of Gujarat . They destroyed the buildings inside and placed the fort under the command of a Portuguese noble who undertook extensive restoration work. Inside the fort there are two main temples, of Trimbakeshwar Mahadev and Bhavani. Tombs of two Muslim saints have also survived. Wells and tanks provide drinking water. The Koli fishermen community living on the island have a lot to do with the fort. Arnala is also known as, perhaps, the only place on then western coast where mercury was found in its free state . A little away from the south end of the fort there is an isolated bastion-like structure. Entry is through a small, square, window-like opening but it is dark inside and full of undergrowth and access is, thus difficult. Arnala linked the Portuguese fort of Bassein (Vasai) in the south an Daman in the north. It was a naval depot and also controlled the hinterland through which products for export to Europe were brought in. It remained with them till capture by the Marathas. The fort was latter captured by Colonel Goddard of the Company but was given back to the peshwa. It came under British control finally in 1803 after Bajiraw II peshwa had signed the infamous Treaty of Bassein (Vasai).

KARNALA: The fort is built at two levels. The lower is reached by a track which starts within the present bird sanctuary. About a kilometer further one comes across the huge rock face of the fort. A few rock-cut step takes one to the main gate which is now in utter ruins. On the left, as one enters, can find some plinths and remnants of old buildings. There outstanding feature of the fort is the high finger like pinnacle or budbala .at the base of this are rock cut chamber and water cisterns. A little beyond this pinnacle is the upper part of the fort, which is fortified by a wall and bastions. There are very few remains within this inner fort. At the base of the fort flows the rover Vegwati. Karnala is very close, about 12 kilometers, from panvel. Because of the bird sanctuary there are a number of visitors and from Mumbai a day trip is adequate to cover both the sanctuary and the fort.

Arnala Fort

Khanderi Fort

Kulaba Fort

Janjira Fort

KHANDERI: The island of Khanderi lies about 18 kilometers south Mumbai at 18 0 42' north, latitude and 72 0 48' east, longitude. It is quit close to the coast, a little north of Alibag. It is a small island, some two kilometers long and less then a kilometer at its widest point. The island was fortified by Shivaji in 1678-79 by building a wall along the entire perimeter of the island. The work was supervised by Daryasarang – the admiral of the navy – Dault Khan and later by Bhandari. The main gate an jetty are at the north east corner. There are only a few remain of old structures within the fort. Two small hillocks in the northern and southern ends of the island are prominent feature and must have been as observation posts. A few old cannons are scattered about. The other structures, including the main gate, have disappeared or are in total ruin. However, there is a functional lighthouse. Khanderi is under the control of the Mumbai port Trust and their permission is required to go there. A MBPT launch does a daily trip but otherwise there is no regular ferry service.

KULABA (Fort at Alibag): It is built on a rock, possibly a spur of the Sahyadris submerged below the seas. Its location is 18 0 37' north, latitude and 72 0 56' east, longitude. It is quite close to the coast at Alibag (properly Shribag) and at low tide one just walks across to the fort. It was very strong fort with high ramparts and seventeen bastions. The main gate feces east and one can see sculptures of tiger, peacock, elephant, and animals but these are now becoming indistinct. The buildings inside as well as some of the fortification have perished. A huge fresh water tank survives but is now in a filthy condition. So also the Ganesh temple, built in 1759 by Kanhoji Angre survives. It is surrounded by a wall and a large number of devotees come to pray at the temple. The idol is made out of white marble. This is worth seeing. Other idols are installed within the temple area. Two smaller temples also exist. Mention should be made of an isolated fortified structure a little distance north of the main fort. This was named Sarjekot and was consider the eighteenth bastion of Kulaba.

JANJIRA FORT (Murud Janjira): The word ‘Janjira' mean an island fort. However, the term is now used exclusively for the great Siddi fort off the coast of Murud and hence it is often called Murud Janjira. Located at 18 0 16' north, latitude and 72 0 55' east longitude, it was at one time given the name “Mehar-ruba” or “Mehar-rusa”. The Portuguese called it “Damda”. The fort was originally built by Rama Koli, under the protection of the Nizamshahi Sultan, in late 15 th century. The walls were made from huge logs. In 1617 the command of the fort was given to Siddi Amar by Malik Ambar, the great Nizamshah's statesman. From then onwards the Siddis held the fort continuously for over three hundred years. And it is to their credit that Janjira was never captured by any power, even the great Maratha warrior Shivaji failed. Janjira was a very strong fort with high rampart and 22 bastions. The main gate faces east and is protected by two huge bastions with a gallery on top. An interesting feature of this gate Mabadarwaja – is a sculpture on the walls. It shows a tiger clasping four elephants in its claws and one each in its jaws and tail. There are four huge cannons in the gallery above the main gate. Today, the fort is in ruins but a visit is well worth it because even the ruin give us a good idea of the grandeur of the place in olden times. A walk along the ramparts presents a wonderful view of the sea and the channel and the large area of the fort. Murud is linked by road to Alibag. An MTDC rest house and a few hotels provide fairly good accommodation.


Source:

Sea and Hill Forts of Western India
The Curator,
Maritime History Society,
INS Kunjali, Near US Club, RC Church,
Colaba, Mumbai - 400005
Tel. No. : 91-022-22152403
Tele Fax : 91-022-22150550
e-mail : mhs_Mumbai@yahoo.co.in